From Voge/Smatko
Mount Goddard (13,568)
The early history of the Evolution Region is, in many respects, the early history of Mount Goddard. Many were the explorers who were enamoured of its summit, and for good reason: it was not only one of the highest summits in the range, but also it was well isolated, distinctly set off to the west of the crest, and could promise a unique view and admirable triangulation station for topographic mapping. Members of the Whitney Survey viewed the peak from far to the south in 1864, named it in honor of civil engineer George Henry Goddard, attempted to climb it twice, and estimated the height to be 14,000 feet. It was not climbed, however, until 15 years later, when, on September 23, 1879, Lil A. Winchell and Louis W. Davis made the first ascent. A winter ascent was made February 4, 1964.
Mount Goddard has twin summits about 200 yards apart, and there is some dispute as to which one is higher. The register has been moved back and forth between the summits for the last 44 years, and presently rests on the southern one. Sighting back and forth with a hand level, the north peak appears to be several feet higher.
Route 1. Northeast couloir and ridge. Class 2 to 3. Walter Starr, Jr., has given a detailed description of this approach from the Muir Trail, which is essentially as follows:
At the lower end of Wanda Lake, ford the outlet, cross the saddle to the southwest at its lowest point, and descend into the rocky basin beyond. Continue almost due south across the basin, fording several small streams some distance above Davis Lake, and proceed toward the very steep spur which ascends from the floor of the basin southward to the crest of the Goddard Divide. Rock climbers may proceed straight up the very steep top of the ridge from the floor of the basin. Those who prefer snow climbing may work their way onto the buttress higher up from the snow on the right. A short distance below the crest, where the buttress becomes almost perpendicular, a ledge leads around the left side, above the long snowfield, and comes out on the crest to the left of the point at the top of the buttress. From here a long talus slope leads up the crest to the summit. Charles Bell says that instead of taking the ledge, it is possible to cross a gully and go straight up with good holds (class 3).
Route 2. Goddard Divide and east slope. Class 2. Russ and Paul Mohn report this route is easier and faster than the traditional Starr route. Take the relatively low angle gully south from Wanda Lake to the Goddard Divide, then traverse along the south side of the divide and up the long east talus slope to the summit. The Mohns' time from Wanda Lake to the summit was 31/4 hours, faster than any register entries for the Starr route.
Route 3. Southwest ridge. Class 2. Proceed directly east from Martha Lake to the small lakelet at 12,000. Turn northeast and enter the basin of the larger lake above. From here, climb a chute northwest to gain the southwest ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.